Two Denver locals launch bistro search for West Highland

Denver residents in the West Highland and Sloan's Lake area will soon have a new option for chef-driven dining if two local operators secure a lease. Chef David Arnold and wine shop owner Hannah Cunningham are searching for a space to open a restaurant called Amateur.

The pair plan to serve seasonal, whole-ingredient food and wine from independent winemakers in a venue no larger than 50 seats. They aim to fill what Cunningham calls a serious gap in the local market for a neighborhood bistro.

The partnership began when both professionals realized they were looking for the same type of establishment. Arnold, formerly of Uchi and The Counter at Odell's, needed a front-of-house manager. Cunningham, owner of Bon Vin, needed a chef. They joined forces after meeting through the Up NXT pop-up series.

"I think Hannah and I both separately wanted to open a very neighborhood bistro with really great food and reasonably priced, but amazing, wine," Arnold said. Cunningham noted the timing was serendipitous because neither had the other's specific operational needs covered.

Cunningham opened Bon Vin in Sloan's Lake about a year ago. She previously worked in the kitchen at Margot and ran a micro-bakery called Mother Sauce. Her focus now is on wine education and hosting tasting events. A restaurant allows her to serve alcohol on premises, which is restricted in retail settings in Denver.

"The plan was to open the bottle shop, and then find a great space where I can serve on premises and do what my full passion is, which is food and wine together," Cunningham said. She has hosted pop-ups featuring chefs such as Justin Freeman, Geoff Cox, and Ben Whelan outside her store.

Arnold has been considering opening a restaurant for two years. He noted that finding a suitable space for a first concept is difficult because good locations are often taken before they are widely advertised. His Freehand Provisions project uses excess farm produce to create hot sauces and family-style dinners.

Both Arnold and Cunningham left careers in software to pursue culinary work. The name Amateur reflects the Latin definition of someone who does something for love or passion. Arnold said the name serves as a funny reframe of why people enter the food industry.

The project is in its early stages. The duo is hosting a five-course preview dinner on Tuesday, Dec. 8, at Odell's Bagels. Tickets cost $95, with an optional wine pairing available for an additional $45.